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BIrdsboro Practice
Getting ready for this season's climbing with some aid climbing and self-rescue at Birdsboro.
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Spring is teasing. We've had some warm days recently, but it was overcast and the temperature dropped again today. I wanted to get out climbing, but worried it would be a little cold yet. The nearest rock would be cold and possibly damp for free climbing. Free climbing is where hands and feet (and sometimes your face, right Greg?) are used to haul you up the rock and the rope/gear are only a backup in case of a fall. I've been thinking I should familiarize myself with aid climbing techniques. Unlike free climbing, you pull and stand on the gear you place to get up the wall. It would be a good skill to have in case I climb my way into something I can't free climb through. And many of the bigger climbs in the world have at least some sections of aid climbing on them. If nothing else, it is a good opportunity to get in more practice placing gear and building confidence it what really holds body weight. Or a bounce test. Did they move unexpectedly when I stood on them? How hard were they to clean after?
Kurt, Greg, and I headed to Birdsboro to see how it would be.
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There were a few groups there, with one working on Orange Sunshine. That was the line I had in mind for aid practice. Birdsboro is a sport area and that was the only one I was pretty confident would have enough opportunities for gear placement. Kurt spotted another line a bit up trail that looked to have enough gear options; Pinch Six, a 5.6 that leaned back a bit from vertical for its 40(?) feet of climbing.
We had two ropes, so Kurt set up a toprope while I racked up. Then I was off on my first mock aid pitch. It was pretty straightforward. There is plenty to learn to smooth the process, of course, but the basics weren't complicated. I made 4 gear placements and used the three bolts on the line. According to photos at the start and finish, I averaged about 3 minutes per piece/bolt.
The timespan also gave others plenty of time to come by and eye the goofball at the sport area standing in a homemade aider 8 feet off the ground on a 5.6. I'm so badass.
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Greg was up next. Not only was he learning aid technique, this was his first time placing gear. He was on a toprope backup as well, but boy was he startled by a sudden carabiner shift. He did fine, basically making the same placements I had.
Kurt was up next. His turn went smoothly, save for dropping an aider. Thank goodness we were able to get it all those tens of feet back up to him. It was harrowing there for a bit.
We decided to practice ascending the rope next. It would be good for Greg to learn, and for Kurt and I to refresh on. Kurt was already pretty fresh though, he just took a self-rescue course a few weeks back. To set up, I climbed the seeping, somewhat slimy, Zorro's Corner. Mainly because someone left a bail 'biner on it and I can't resist booty. I claimed my reward, put in my draw and then rested, looking for a non-slimy path to the top. My foot slipped and I took a little tumble. It's too bad there were no hot women around to be impressed by our conquests today. There would have been swooning,
We anchored our rope then took turns setting up for and then ascending.
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A short day, but fun. It is probably a good idea to brush up on these sorts of skills yearly anyway, and what better time than when it is still a little cold and damp for free climbing?
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