Back safe and tired. Third weekend in a row I have been up in the Gunks; who knew November would be my peak Gunks season?
I went up with Kimmy and we managed to get in 7 pitches today - 2 pitches of Bunny, 2 pitches of Belly Roll, 2 pitches of Jackie, and the single pitch Double Chin. Kimmy led the first climb and I looked at what she placed and why. I led the remainder and she gave me feedback on my gear placements.
Bunny (5.4) was fun, it had a roof, corner, flake, and maybe a little chimney at the top. The last pitch was really a scramble up to a tree and Kimmy belayed me up then I belayed her. We walked off by the actually flowing Überfall.
Belly Roll (5.4) was awkward at the part that it is named for, an ungraceful hook-a-leg-in-the-offwidth-and-hump-your-way-up-the rock move. On the second pitch I followed the path a previous party took, but I think they took a wrong turn. It was still easy, but there was some bushes to climb around.
Warmed up, and after the big group of top-ropers finally moved, I headed up Jackie (5.5). The first pitch was rough for me. Not really physically, but mentally. I got really psyched out at the first overhang crux. I had a great piece below it (though on a long sling so it wouldn't drag the rope over the overhang once I passed it). I went up a little, felt a great hold, but it moved. That didn't help. I reset and got mostly over it and panicked. I down-climbed back to a stance and rested (still haven't hung or fallen on gear...) I made it over the second time and immediately slotted a large, atomic bombproof nut. Solid enough that Kimmy couldn't retrieve it. I didn't want to lose her gear and managed to pull it back out on rappel when I gave up on my nut tool and just gave it a good yank. The climbing was smooth to the roof before the belay. I had some nice gear and found this part easier. I was still nervous, but I am tall enough to reach a pretty nice ledge above the roof that many probably can't. The second pitch was a pretty easy run up a fun, slabby section.
It was 4PM by the time we were down and heading to another climb. Sun would set at 4:30, but we decided to sneak in a final, single pitch climb. We picked Double Chin (5.5).
It looked neat and challenging, with two roofs to manage. The book advertised the second as the crux and I felt reassured to not have it in ground fall range. It was wet under the first roof and I didn't feel all that comfy. I managed to get in a solid #2 camalot after another good piece, so I felt pretty confident it would hold me even if I never wanted to actually find out. It was easier than I though, you just exit left from under the roof up an arete. It was nice. The second roof was tricker. I managed to get in the #4 camalot. Good lord that thing is huge, I felt reassured by that. I climbed up under the roof, worked out to the left side and managed another bomber cam placement before attempting the awkward move back onto the face above the roof. I dispensed with gracefulness again - working a sweet right knee onto the face as an intermediate until I could get up enough to actually plant my foot.
The belay/rap station is a tree sticking out horizontally and I strapped myself into it. I dedn't find it the most comfortable stance to hang below it, but I didn't want to be above it and fall onto my anchor if Kimmy fell and pulled me off. I should have anchored to another part of the tree and sat above it, but I was out of slings and couldn't move my cordolette (loop of thin rope I anchored myself to the tree with). I figured Kimmy would be pretty quick anyway and just slipped on my headlight before letting Kimmy start. It was getting pretty dark, and the light was extremely useful about 3 minutes later. Kimmy climbed and cleaned pretty quickly and we made the awkward rappel down.
Full and exhausting day. We hit Biggy's Barbecue Bistro in New Paltz and split the pig out special. It was good, too much meat for us to tackle though. We had ribs, chicken, pulled pork, and brisket. The sides were alright. The corn was too buttery - it swam in a soup of butter - and I didn't like the potato salad as much as most others I've had. The ribs and pulled pork were excellent.
Time to shower (and maybe have a doughnut) and pass out.
